Citânia de Briteiros

A stone's throw away from where we were staying in São Lourenço de Sande (Guimarães), are the archaeological remains of Citânia de Briteiros, a pre-Roman Castro. This fortified hilltop village spans approximately twenty hectares and features stone house foundations, remnants of defensive walls, and paved streets. The site, dating back to the second century BCE, offers a unique window into proto-history. Walking through, you are immersed in pastoral beauty—crumbling stone edifices, statuesque oaks, and sweeping views of the valley and mountains. Initially, Citânia de Briteiros was excavated under the leadership of Francisco Martins Sarmento in the 19th century. A visit here gives you a glimpse of what pre-Roman life was like for these settlers. Remains indicate a thriving community with a thousand-plus inhabitants at its peak. The village featured a bathhouse with conduits for incoming water, a council house, and circular homes.

Later, we continued onto the Castro Cultural Museum and admired the architectural elements that were hand-carved out of granite with geometric patterns, one referenced as Pedro Formosa (beautiful stone), depicting an elegant, stylized human form with a geometric patterned background.

Inspired, we concluded our day with a visit to the thermal spa, Taipas Termal, where we enjoyed some relaxing family time in their pool and sauna before being whisked away into separate rooms for massages under the jet of three sprays called Vichy Douche, followed by individuated whirlpool baths. Afterwards, we met back at the pool for a final dip before heading back to where we stayed, and getting ready to go out to dinner.

Barcelos

After a lovely walk through their sprawling outdoor market, where they sell everything under the sun from clothing, furniture, housewares, and to an entire area devoted to produce, cured meats, cheeses, honey, flowers, and more, we headed to lunch at Casa dos Arcas. We commenced our meal with a green salad with onions, and for our main course, we had Arroz de Cabidela, a tasty chicken and rice dish originally from the Minho region of Portugal, and fresh melon for dessert. It was not until later that day that I learned that the chicken derives its chocolatey coloring and cinnamon taste from the blood of the chicken.

I sometimes welcome getting out of my comfort zone, and yet if I knew in advance, I would not have had the gumption to try it. After thinking about it reminded me of a story my mother told me when she was a child: her grandmother had made Czernina for dinner (a traditional Polish soup with the blood of a duck), and unfortunately for my mom, it was her favorite duck. It was a memorable culinary adventure, dining al fresco in their garden, and excellent service in this gem of a town, Barcelos.

Bom Jesus do Monte, Braga

Trying to pick the most beautiful church in Northern Portugal is like seeking the most perfect bloom in a rose garden. To name one standout, it is Bom Jesus do Monte. It is located on the slopes of Mount Espinho and features a dazzling Baroque staircase of five hundred and seventy plus steps to the top. We were pressed for time, so we opted for the funicular that is powered by water and with the help of gravity. I would have been happy to have walked them all if time permitted. Either way, with the sun and heat, one may need to stop for a rehydration before continuing, or a nap if one is staying at one of the hotels on the hilltop.

From the top, one can enjoy views of the city of Braga. Inside the Basilica of Bom Jesus do Monte, the altar features larger-than-life terracotta sculptures depicting the story of Christ’s crucification and in the Unção Chapel (The chapel of the Anointing of the Lord’s body) the sculptures look unsurprisingly rigid, and yet the folds draped fabric of their clothes offer a suggestion of movement, and the overall effect is artistically elegant. In the Unção Chapel, Mary’s fixed gaze at Jesus draws the viewer in and around the scene. On our way back to the car, we passed through the attractive grounds and lake.

Day trip to Spain

Upon arriving in Santiago de Compostela, we were ready for lunch and made our way to Horta d’Obradorio, where we dined in their verdant garden amongst blooming hydrangeas. The cooking and presentation were outstanding, and for the main course, we enjoyed Arroz Negro con Rape (Black Rice with Monkfish) and for dessert, Mousse au Chocolate with vanilla.

We came to Santiago de Compostela to see its famed cathedral, and yet through a chance walk I came across a polychrome bronze statue of two vividly dressed women, Las Marías, Las Dos Marias, by César Lombera, a Basque artist. I immediately knew there was an important story here. Coralia and Maruxa were sisters and survivors who endured abuse and oppression under Franco. The sisters became known for their daily walks dressed eccentrically in colorful clothing that they sewed themselves. Their experiences left them impoverished, bald, toothless, and mostly abandoned. Their story has prevailed partly thanks to César Lombera’s statue and his commitment to get its placement in Alameda Park.

On our way back to Portugal, we made a detour to a small island off the coast. Illa de Arousa, with an attractive port and beautiful beaches, some with beautiful pine trees, is located more or less between Santiago de Compostela and Vigo. We took a lovely stroll along the port and explored much of the island on foot and by car.

This gives one a glimpse of our exploration of the Minho region (Northern Portugal) and our day trip to Galicia, Spain. Art is a common thread in our travels that links these people and their histories together, from the decorative patterns on architectural elements of pre-Roman settlements to sculptures, architecture, and landscape design of Bom Jesus de Monte, and the colorful statue of Las Marías in Alameda Park that commemorates them.