There are two types of people in the world. Those who savour a good cup of coffee and those who have yet to be converted. Luckily, I fall in the first group of caffeine seekers who cannot start their mornings without that kick. But who can blame us? Once you have tasted the joy of a great coffee, there is no turning back.

A nation wakes up to coffee

For decades, the story of India was dominated by tea. Coffee was a side note, meant to be exported or enjoyed by a few in the South. Today, the renaissance of coffee is evident across India. A transition from southern coffee fans to a national lifestyle symbol for Indians in every state. Coffee is a ritual, a conversation starter, and a lifestyle.

In the 17th century, Baba Budan brought coffee beans from Yemen to Karnataka. It is still the largest producer of coffee in the country, with Kerala and Tamil Nadu catching up. The legacy began and grew thanks to the Indian Coffee House cooperative chain, which has 400 outlets nationwide. A favourite spot for intellectuals and politicians, today it is frequented by everyone.

In 2018, Cafe Coffee Day was started by V.G. Siddhartha. It opened access to quick coffee and rapidly rose in popularity. Today there are 1,700 cafes of CCD. Inspired by this success story, new coffee brands like Blue Tokai, Third Wave, Araku Coffee, KC Roasters, and Subko are now establishing themselves.

Coffee finds a new voice

Coffee lovers demand special beans, a unique story, and sustainable roasts. The trend of single-origin tracking is preferred, which pushes brands to be more transparent with their sourcing. A simple cup of coffee has transformed into a crafted experience. In cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Hyderabad, and Bangalore, specialty coffee has gone mainstream. Cold brews are very popular amongst a younger audience. Nitrogen-infused, grab-and-go packs are sought after. Post-pandemic Moka posts were all the rage. Investments in Aeropress machines have made home-brewing easier.

India’s unique bean stories

The signature Indian coffee is a shade-grown high-elevation bean from Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. It is an Indian Arabica and Robusta-dominated production. These beans are rust-resistant and high-yielding. Some regional specialities include Chikmagalur, which is known for its fruity cocoa notes. Beans from Coorg (Kodagu) are more earthy, spicy, and aromatic. The tribal-grown coffee from the Araku Valley is smooth with floral and fruity notes. Then there are the beans that are exposed to the monsoon weather, which produce low-acidity, earthy, nutty flavours known as Monsoon Malabar. This coffee language is spoken and understood by drinkers and is not just confined to baristas anymore.

The silent revolution of women growers

As the Coffee Revolution grew in the cities, there was a quieter transformation at the plantations. The regions of Kodagu and Araku had women-led farmer collectives that produced high-grade Arabica. This redefined ownership through programs like Naadi Foundation. Empowering tribal women to switch from labour to leadership is a significant story for the country. They manage farms, negotiate export terms, and participate in international coffee competitions.

Competitions like the National Barista Championship, Filter Coffee Championship, and Coffee in Good Spirits events elevate craft standards. The farm-to-cup transparency empowers the growers and the consumers. Working with resilient varieties like S795 and robusta hybrids helps rebuild crop security amidst climate change.

Changing tastes

Millennials and Gen Z are leading the growth in demand for a good cup of coffee. For them, drinking coffee is a part of their lifestyle and identity. Social media has influenced the trends and kinds of coffee they consume as well. This cultural shift has impacted the way cafes are designed. No longer are there quick-service counters. They are sensory spaces filled with analogue experiences. As concept stores, the walls speak the language of provenance and sustainability.

Coffee with a conscience

Within the Coffee Renaissance, a pivot to hyperlocal is evident. Many cafes are turning the spotlights on lesser-known beans from emerging regions like Koraput, Odisha, and Bastar, Chhattisgarh. Black Baza and Corridor Seven are working with micro-lots to preserve indigenous bean profiles. This supports the 'coffee with a story' ask that is growing among the consumers in urban areas. Taste is rooted in geography and seasons.

Regional taste preferences are shaping roast profiles, too. Compared to European palettes, which favour bright, acidic beans, Indian roasters are adapting to local preferences. Medium-dark roasts, chocolatey undertones, and balanced bitterness. Coffee, in India, is being Indianised. This inclusive coffee economy begins at the estate and ends at the cup. It is ethical and equitable.

The future of India’s coffee narrative

India is blossoming from a bulk exporter to an experience-led, origin-celebrating powerhouse. Focus on sustainability, farmer empowerment, innovation of varieties, and consumer education places the country on an important platform. It stands poised to redefine what it means to brew and savour coffee. The coffee market is projected to grow to $1 billion by 2032.