Being a yoga practitioner myself, I had this long-cherished desire to visit the Kumaon Himalayas, and oh God! Aren’t they awe-inspiring?

Before my departure to the Kumaon Himalayas, I was advised by my longtime Kumaoni friend from Almora, Chandan Singh Koranga, to flip through some literary works that would help me acquaint myself with the spirit of the Kumaon Himalayas.

T.J. Saunders’ “Notes of Wanderings in the Himmala" was every bit enlightening, wherein I got a vivid description of the grandest scenery of the snowy Himalayas. Another pre-departure read was Manju Kak’s “In the Shadow of the Devi Kumaon," wherein I got a peek into this enigmatic land of Kumaon through the prism of woodcraft, unique in its aesthetics in this part of India, as well as Kumaoni artisans’ worldview and belief system.

The call of Kumaon

Since ancient times, the majestic Kumaon Himalayas in the north Indian state of Uttarakhand have been a preferred place for yoga, meditation, and other spiritual austerities. Justifiably, the Kumaon Himalaya is popularly referred to as the "Devbhumi," or the abode of Gods! To explore the rarefied beauty of the Kumaon region, I chose the quaint hill station of Almora, also popularly referred to as the “Cultural Capital of Kumaon," as my base.

Almora is beautifully perched at an altitude of 1642 m, and I must confess, the profundity of the jaw-dropping Himalayan peaks touches you immensely. In this part of the world, there is no crass commercialism of the tourism phenomenon. Almora has somehow managed to remain obscure, laid-back, and unhyped.

It did help my Himalayan rejuvenation cause a lot—courtesy of my Kumaoni friend Chandan Singh Koranga, whose family has been the natives of this enchanting mountain state for centuries. Chandan has been guiding visitors who come in search of spiritual upliftment, tranquillity, and immersive tours to Kumaon. His signature Wood Villas in Dhamas hamlet, 15 km away from Almora, are located in a picture-perfect setting, against the backdrop of the awesome Himalayan peaks.

One must bear in mind that Kumaon isn’t at all about high-octane mountaineering; rather, it is about tranquillity and peace. It is one region of India where you can leave your so-called civilization behind (at least for a week or so) and embrace the meditative Himalayas, breathe the same air that the ancient Rishis of yore breathed, and go back home, a thoroughly transformed person!

Chandan’s strategy for exploring the grandeur of the Kumaon Himalayas is innovative, and he relies on his own decade-long personal observation of the “visitor mindset," through which he offers tailor-made itineraries with a fusion of soft treks and cultural immersion to visitors from abroad.

Kasar Devi, India's Van Allen Belt

I would give Kasar Devi a 5-star rating. If you are in search of true bliss, this is the place to be. Just 9 km away from Almora, the Himalayan panorama surrounding Kasar Devi is breathtaking. And, when it comes to soul enrichment, the entire Kasar Devi hill is actually a massive geomagnetic radiation field, courtesy of the Van Allen Belt. There are only two other such Van Allen Belts—Machu Picchu in Peru and Stonehenge in England.

Kasar Devi’s potent energy fields and the picturesque Himalayan surroundings offer today’s jaded traveller a spiritual nectar that is truly indescribable. Apart from being a much preferred place for Sadhana & Meditation since ancient times, great men and women of the stature of Swami Vivekananda, Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore, Bob Dylan, George Harrison, Cat Stevens, Allen Ginsberg, and Steve Jobs, to name just a few, have been past visitors to Kasar Devi.

This place oozes with spiritual energy, and so strong is the influence that even people with psychiatric disorders find relief by spending some quality time here.

The five peaks of Panchachuli, as viewed from Kasar Devi hills, along with the awe-inspiring Nanda Devi Parbat, make for a remarkable kaleidoscopic vignette.

Dunagiri trek

One of India’s most hallowed yoga and meditation hubs is Dunagiri. This has been the preferred place of practicing Kriya Yoga as propounded by the ancient Rishi, His Holiness Mahavatar Babaji. The meditation chamber (cave) is tucked up in Kukuchina on the Pandukholi mountain.

Spiritual seekers engage in deep meditation and Kriya Yoga as espoused by Mahavatar Babaji centuries ago. Kriya Yoga has caught the attention of the world’s spiritual seekers as a tool towards attaining an elevated spiritual plane.

Mahavatar Babaji is believed to be around 2000 years old (presuming that he is alive). It was Swami Paramahansa Yogananda who first introduced Mahavatar Babaji to the world through his literary work, Autobiography of a Yogi.

The trek to Dunagiri and the time you spend there in contemplation could be a life-changing experience. Here in the lap of the Himalayas, India’s ancient wisdom and Kriya Yoga techniques will lead you to the path of divinity. It is one of India’s best off-grid spiritual experiences to savor.

Chandan himself takes visitors on orientation tours to the Kumaoni villages close by that are steeped in centuries-old mythology, and one can observe the beautiful Kumaoni mountain life unfold in front of your naked eyes like a veil slipping out of the forehead of a gorgeous bride!

Katarmal Sun Temple, a yogic amphitheater

According to Chandan, the Katarmal Sun Temple trek (16 km from Almora) is a light trek (Halka Fulka Trek) that doesn’t really test your endurance; rather, this trek is more cultural and is an ode to ancient India’s mastery of architecture and astronomy.

This outstanding 9th-century Sun Temple is built in such a scientific manner that the temple’s East-West configuration, done so meticulously, allows the sun’s rays to light up the sanctum sanctorum on certain significant days. Apart from the main temple, there is a cluster of 45 other shrines with idols of Lord Shiva, Goddess Parvati, and other gods and goddesses of the Hindu pantheon.

The majestic Himalayan panorama as viewed from the temple premises is every bit awe-inspiring, with Mount Nanda Devi, India’s second-highest mountain (7816 m), towering above like a sentinel.

Village excursions offer visitors a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to indulge in concepts like slow living & mindfulness. Visitors get a chance to appreciate the simple delights of everyday life in Kumaon as they go about caring for livestock, preparing firewood, and still take great pride in characters from the Hindu epics—the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.

Try to coincide your visit to Katarmal with any Hindu festivals for a chance to partake in the rich cultural fiesta of Kumaon. Their traditional dance forms, like Jhora Chanchari, Hukriya Baul, and Chholiya, have captivated the outside world for centuries.

Pindari Glacier, yoga in glaciers

This is a moderately challenging trek and is meant for experienced trekkers. You need to be reasonably fit as the trek advances through thick forest, and one has to encounter swift-flowing Himalayan streams and rocky crests.

Located at an altitude that is all of 12,300 feet above sea level, the awe-inspiring sight of Pindari Glacier at Zero Point has mesmerized trekkers from the world over.

To provide an exhilarating trekking experience to avid trekkers, Chandan’s itinerary takes you on a journey from Almora to Kharkiya on a 4x4 drive and from there on foot. The stretch from Khati to Dwali is particularly challenging, as the terrain is steep and the topography changes dramatically.

However, all your trekker’s fatigue vanishes once you set up your camp and relax against the backdrop of the magnificent Pindari Glacier.

Walking tour of Almora

The Himalayas do have an influence on you in terms of peace, well-being, and mindfulness. However, most visitors tend to overlook the cultural side of the Himalayas in their desire to reach those imposing snow-clad peaks and jaw-dropping mountain panoramas.

Keeping this in mind, the Himalayas are a class apart when it comes to walking tours; more so if these walks are "bazaar" or market-centric, as they are a beehive of activity through trade and commerce, thereby connecting people and cultures. It is through such connections that visitors and locals alike get to know each other’s diversity.

The bazaars of Almora are bustling nerve centers, and each bazaar has its own charismatic charm. Chandan’s signature Almora Bazaar Walks have touched the hearts of countless discerning visitors, and I, too, wasn’t an exception.

Almora Bazaar Walks are 100% private, bespoke, and guided walking tours that take you along some of Kumaon’s most intriguing markets.

Kutchery Bazaar

I was most fascinated by Kutchery Bazaar. In local Hindi parlance, it indicates “the bazaar of Court," and this famed bazaar is at least 500 years old.

In this bazaar, some of Uttarakhand's priceless copperware collections are available for sale. In the days of yore, the coppersmiths, who are still referred to as "Tamtas," used to work in the Royal Palace as coin makers. After the fall of the erstwhile Chand dynasty, these highly skilled “Tamtas” began to manufacture copper utensils, which are considered to be great pieces of Kumaoni art.

Khazanchi Mohallah & Johari Walk

Almora used to be the bastion of royalty, where trading in gold, silver, and jewelry was commonplace. We discovered an exclusive settlement of goldsmiths at the Johari market, where some of Kumaon’s best jewelers have their outlets selling traditional Kumaoni jewelry like nose rings, necklaces, and a wide variety of bangles.

Gold and jewelry aside, what makes the Johari market stand out is the world-famous Pashmina and Angora wools, stitched to perfection by highly skilled tailors.

Paltan Bazaar

As you meander along leisurely through the slate roads of Paltan Bazaar, there is history written everywhere. In fact, this bazaar, I was told, dates back to the 16th century and was built by the then royalty—Raja Kalyan Chand.

The main bazaar is renowned for the Clock Tower of Almora. This unique eclectic clock tower is made of stone, and there is a tin roof protecting the clock at the center. If you walk further ahead to the end of the road, the intricately carved statues of India’s freedom fighters, Dr. B.R. Ambedkar and Victor Mohan Joshi, remind one of Almora’s immense contribution towards India’s freedom struggle.

Lala Badri Sah House

Lala Badri Sah’s residence is a must-visit site, as it once hosted India’s Cyclonic Monk—Swami Vivekananda, who spent quite some time here in August 1890 for spiritual austerities. The local folklore is ripe with stories and legends surrounding the great Swami.

Wrapping up

People from across the world come to the Himalayas in search of peace and solitude. Practicing yoga and meditation in the Himalayas can be a very purifying experience.

The Kumaon Himalayas, which have been the hub of yoga & meditation since ancient times, have emerged as contemporary India’s most idyllic region for yoga practitioners. With the oxygen concentration being high and with the easy availability of carbon-neutral sites, the Kumaon Himalayas offer an irresistible invitation to indulge in a rejuvenating body-mind-soul purification journey.