Traversing the narrow passageways of Antelope Canyon, with its color palette ranging from deep purple, red, and cobalt blue to soft yellow, sherbet orange, and pink, and textured sandstone walls that seemingly swirl around me as the light changes with the passing of time, feels like being immersed in a Georgia O’Keeffe painting. The famous Southwestern artist who made her home one state over in New Mexico was all about organic, sensuous shapes and forms that reflected the landscape around her, and the walls of the canyon are very similar indeed.

Here, in northern Arizona, on land that is part of the Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park in the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation, ten miles outside of Page, Arizona, I’ve opted to explore the Upper Antelope Canyon, a tour that takes approximately one and a half hours and can only be done through a licensed Navajo guide. Page is better known for boating and water activities on Lake Powell. However, Lake Powell was formed in 1963 when the Glen Canyon Dam was built, diverting water from the Colorado River, while millions of years of water and wind erosion shaped Antelope Canyon into its current form.

With such ancient history, there are tales and myths waiting to be told as we walk through the sculpted corridors, interspersed with holes where the rays of the sun enter and highlight the canyon’s beauty. One of them tells the story of a Navajo girl who, while chasing an antelope, discovered the canyon. There is another one that claims it was created to connect the real and spiritual worlds.

“Tsé bighánílíní” is the Navajo name for the Upper Canyon, our guide tells us, and though it literally translates to “the place where water runs through rocks,” it also refers to the canyon’s healing properties.

For those of you who, like me, are used to the caves of Southern Indiana, Antelope is truly unique in several ways. First of all, the entrance to the upper canyon is at ground level and consists of an easy walk with less than a 2% incline. Unlike the Midwest caves I’m used to, the temperature is not a chill 55 degrees either. Nor is it a canyon like the Grand Canyon, which is less than two hours away and is basically a vast hole in the ground, albeit a very stunning one.

Antelope is a slot canyon, a term that is used to describe any canyon that is at least ten times taller than it is wide. There are places where Antelope Canyon’s walls rise up to 120 feet. Arizona and New Mexico have numerous slot canyons, which is a geological feature most commonly found in the Southwest. However, the neighboring state of Utah has the greatest number of such formations. The iron oxide found in the soft Navajo sandstone creates vivid colors.

When booking the tour (and bear in mind that tours are mandatory; this is not a place where you can go off exploring on your own), I opted for the upper tour. Known as Hasdez’ twazi, Navajo for spiral role arches, the Lower Antelope Canyon Tour requires climbing ladders and changing elevations more frequently, and I tend to be lazy.

Though the world inside the canyon is surreal, outside, the high desert landscape is arid swaths of sand dotted with prickly pear cacti, saguaros, yuccas, agaves, and large rock formations bordered by buttes and mesas. Think of John Wayne Westerns surrounding an interior O’Keeffe painting. It’s not unusual to see wild horses munching on sage and mesquite.

Although spectacular at any time, photography tours where the sun shines through portals in the ceiling that bring out its beauty can be scheduled as well. But even on regular tours, the guides are very helpful in setting up photo shots, pointing out the best angles and the best settings for catching the colors.

For another immersive experience, be sure to explore the Navajo lands surrounding the canyon. Licensed Navajo craftspeople set up roadside stands where they sell jewelry, including pieces made from rare Arizona turquoise that is bluer in color and more common, but equally beautiful as the Nevada turquoise. The stone symbolizes both a connection to the natural world and is thought to engender protection and health. Other goods sold throughout the Navajo lands include pottery, blankets, and silver jewelry.

Food vendors at these roadside stops sell fry bread, sometimes called Navajo tacos. These are made of fried dough that is puffy and light, and then, according to what you want, slathered with layers of meat, Navajo stew, beans, lettuce, tomatoes, strips of grilled chilies, and cheese.

Connecting to Navajo culture, even in such a transitory way, is part of the experience of this Western adventure, and there’s a lot of information available at Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation.