Puducherry, located on the southern coast of India, is one of the more distinctive coastal towns in the country. Alongside its colonial-era architecture and coastal scenery, it is also known for its spiritual legacy—being the place where Rishi Aurobindo, one of India’s important spiritual thinkers, established his Ashram.

Sri Aurobindo, originally a Bengali revolutionary, actively participated in India’s freedom struggle. However, his journey eventually took a more inward turn, and he withdrew from political activism to devote himself to spiritual practice in Puducherry. From a modest Ashram, his work expanded to influence people across the country and abroad.

Many Bengalis feel a cultural and emotional connection to Puducherry because of Sri Aurobindo’s legacy. I, too, felt drawn to visit. The opportunity came through my younger brother Debasish, who was then working in Chennai, just 166 kilometers from Puducherry. With his help, my travel and accommodation were arranged with ease.

We stayed at an ITDC hotel along the beachfront. After settling in, I consulted the hotel’s manager for guidance on exploring the city. He suggested a walking tour, and a knowledgeable guide was arranged. We began with the French Quarters and later continued toward the Ashram and its surroundings.

On the first morning, we explored the French Quarters, completing the 2 km walking circuit in around two hours. For someone like me, who had limited exposure to French architecture, it was enlightening to see structures such as the War Memorial, Old Lighthouse, Romain Rolland Library, museum, Joan of Arc statue, Legislative Assembly, Church of Capuchins, and Le Grand Hôtel d’Europe. The urban layout followed a grid pattern, and the buildings stood out for their arched entrances, maintained courtyards, and brightly painted façades.

Among the landmarks, the Raj Nivas—residence of the Lieutenant Governor—left a strong impression. Another notable structure was the Hôtel de Ville, which once served as the Town Hall and now houses the municipal offices.

Lunch was at La Terrasse, a café on Beach Road, followed by the second part of our walking tour. The afternoon heat was intense, with temperatures touching the high 40s (Celsius), so I prepared accordingly. My guide, Prashanth, was familiar with every corner of the city and led me through the northern areas, home to the Aurobindo Ashram and several related institutions.

Our route passed the French Consulate, Ashram playground, Ashram Art House, Le Foyer du Soldat, the Samadhi Sthal, and various shops such as Auroshika, Boutique d’Auroville, Auroshree, and La Tienda. I purchased incense sticks made by Ashram members.

Puducherry’s colonial history began in 1673 with the arrival of French officer Bellanger. The town changed hands between the French, Dutch, and British before coming under sustained French control. It was during the governance of Lenoir, Dumas, and Dupleix that the town saw planned development between 1726 and 1754. However, colonial rivalries with the British East India Company persisted. Robert Clive’s arrival marked a significant shift, and the French Governor Dupleix was recalled to France.

Though Puducherry briefly came under British control, the town was returned to the French in 1765 after a treaty. Governor Law de Lauriston took charge of redevelopment, constructing over 400 buildings in five months. Despite further skirmishes with the British, Puducherry remained under French rule until it was formally transferred to India in 1954.

The Aurobindo Ashram, established in 1926, remains a central part of Puducherry’s identity. Based on the practice of “Integral Yoga,” it draws individuals seeking spiritual reflection. Sri Aurobindo’s teachings emphasize living in constant communion with the divine, recognizing the inner self as the path to transformation.

A quiet and contemplative atmosphere pervades the Samadhi Sthal, where the mortal remains of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother (Mirra Alfassa) are interred. Devotees maintain silence here, focusing on inner stillness.

Mirra Alfassa, originally from Paris, became a close collaborator of Sri Aurobindo and later assumed leadership of the Ashram after his passing in 1950. She envisioned a space where humanity could come together beyond the boundaries of nation, caste, and politics. This vision took form in 1968 with the founding of Auroville, an international township intended for collective spiritual and community growth.

Auroville is located 8 km from central Puducherry and today is home to a diverse group of residents from various parts of the world. Many are engaged in activities such as agriculture, crafts, education, and sustainable technologies. Architecturally, Auroville blends Western and traditional South Indian design, often set against a rural landscape.

The most iconic structure in Auroville is the Matrimandir, a spherical, golden structure often misunderstood as a temple. It serves instead as a space for silent introspection. The building stands on a 62-acre expanse and symbolizes a commitment to inner growth. Inside the Matrimandir is an Inner Chamber with a 70 cm optical glass globe that reflects focused sunlight—designed to support meditation.

While exploring Auroville with my guide Prashanth, I met Amanda Ferguson, a long-time resident originally from Europe. Amanda moved to Auroville in the mid-1980s and described her journey as one of learning to surrender all sense of personal ownership to the divine. She recalled attending Auroville’s inauguration on February 28, 1968, when soil from 124 nations was placed in a lotus-shaped urn as a symbol of unity.

These experiences—walking through the city, learning its layered history, witnessing spiritual practices, and observing the quiet routines of Auroville residents—offered insight into a place where colonial heritage and contemporary spirituality coexist.

Traveler’s notes

  • Best time to visit: Puducherry is accessible year-round. The first week of January draws many visitors for the International Yoga Festival, which features classical arts and spiritual workshops.

  • Getting there: the closest international airport is in Chennai, approximately 135 km away. Travel by road from Chennai to Puducherry takes about 3.5 hours. The East Coast Road is a scenic route preferred by many travelers.

  • Accommodation: options include guesthouses linked to the Ashram, heritage hotels, beach resorts, and standard city hotels. Choices are available to suit a variety of budgets and interests.

  • Dining: Puducherry offers South Indian, North Indian, French, Mediterranean, and multi-cuisine options. Restaurants and cafés can be found throughout the city, particularly in the French Quarters and near the promenade.

  • Shopping: local markets and boutiques offer incense, textiles, handmade paper, leather items, and artisanal products made by Auroville residents and Ashram communities.