The city of Ahmedabad, which is on the verge of celebrating its 600th birthday, is not only steeped in history but is evolving harmoniously in its new avatar as a city of modern cosmopolitan fervor. The average man on the street is suave, with plenty of cash to spare. It is a rich city by Indian standards and has its share of NRIs who pump in much-needed foreign exchange into the local economy.

At first glance, a visitor to Ahmedabad may be deceived by the rather old Mughal structures like mosques and the Indo-Saracenic style of architectural facades that dot the city’s landscape. But make no mistake—Ahmedabad is every bit a modern city, with its own share of glitzy shopping malls, theatres, amusement parks, quality restaurants, and a pulsating cultural scene with colorful festivals lined up throughout the year.

I have been fortunate enough to visit this incredible city on numerous occasions, largely to take stock of the tourism scenario, and have been invited to visit the state of Gujarat courtesy of the Tourism Corporation of Gujarat.

Most tourists have a preconceived notion that Ahmedabad is steeped in tradition and conservative in its outlook, which is not true at all. This is one Indian city with a character of its own—where the past blends with the present in a very judicious manner.

The city was founded by Mughal emperor Sultan Ahmed Shah way back in 1411 A.D. on the periphery of the River Sabarmati. If popular Gujarati folklore is anything to go by, it is believed that the emperor was perplexed by the fact that one of his trusted dogs, known for its tenacity, was frequently attacked by a rabbit. This led him to conclude that if the rabbits in this part of the world were so daring and fearless, undoubtedly the native people must be even more courageous.

Since the city is graced with impressive monuments, mosques, mausoleums, and pavilions, the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation, with tacit support from Cruta and the Swaminarayan Trust, has launched a novel way of exploring the varied charms of this incredible city – “The Heritage Walk of Ahmedabad.”

The walking trail has been thoughtfully planned by experts, and there is a reserve pool of volunteers who offer their services as guides to visitors. Encouraged by the positive feedback from like-minded tourists like me, I decided to embark on a walking tour of Ahmedabad.

We commenced our walk from the majestic Swaminarayan Temple and passed through meandering streets covering a plethora of havelis, ancient temples, pols, and intricately designed architectural facades, mostly belonging to the Indo-Saracenic style. My walk was made even more memorable by the fact that my guide, Pavitran, literally knew the entire city like the back of his hand. No question went unanswered, and he kept me amused throughout the walk, often revealing tidbits from the city’s rich, virile past, which would have otherwise remained unknown to me. We covered the entire trail in 2.5 hours, and there was still no sign of fatigue.

Pavitran showed me some of the most outstanding facades in the city, and I couldn’t help marveling at the ingenuity of the architects. Numerous buildings bear the signature of master architects of the stature of Louis Kahn, Le Corbusier, Correa, and Doshi.

Any mention of Ahmedabad evokes memories of Mahatma Gandhi—“Father of the Nation” and an extraordinary human being who shook the mighty British Empire single-handedly through his remarkable method of “Non-Violence and Non-Cooperation.” He lived the life of an ascetic at the world-famous Sabarmati Ashram, ideally located on the banks of the River Sabarmati, where he planned many of his non-violent strategies to dethrone the colonial rulers. I thoroughly enjoyed the evening’s Sound & Light Show, which innovatively depicts the Mahatma’s gradual ascent to the world stage from his humble beginnings.

Numerous visits to this enchanting city have confirmed my conviction that for someone interested in exploring in-depth the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, there is no other city better equipped than Ahmedabad. Be it the Jumma Masjid or the Siddi Sayed Mosque, each one is a masterpiece and a great place to broaden one’s architectural horizons.

I was especially fascinated by the elaborate architectural patterns of Ahmedabad’s Jain temples. They are mostly ornately carved and a treat to watch. Among them, the magnificent Hatheesingh Jain Temple is by far the most outstanding. This majestic temple was built by a wealthy Jain merchant in 1850. What baffled me was not only the sheer enormity of the temple but also the huge amount of white marble exclusively used to build it. The temple is dedicated to Dharamnath, the 15th Jain apostle.

The ‘Step Wells,’ a characteristic feature of Gujarat, are also conspicuous in Ahmedabad. The innovative way in which these wells descend into majestically done-up chambers bears ample testimony to the ingenuity of the local artisans who built them centuries ago.

Of special significance are the ‘Doshiwada ni Pol,’ ‘Zaveri Vad,’ and ‘Chaumukhji ni Pol,’ where I saw numerous ornately decorated temples. What amazed me was the meticulous manner in which the wooden carvings were concealed under seemingly plain exteriors. Be sure to visit the 110-year-old Harkunvar Shethani ni Haveli, which isn’t far.

The magnificent Iskcon Temple—true to its tradition of building grand Radha Krishna temples worldwide—doesn’t disappoint devotees in Ahmedabad with its regal architecture. Apart from taking part in the divinely ordained evening Aarati, you may also partake in the Prasadam during lunch. The vegetarian fare is mouth-watering, and the community feast can be a rewarding experience, especially for those less initiated in Hindu traditions. In the evening, after Aarati, the temple conducts spiritual lectures and discourses that are truly uplifting. Try to coincide your visit with the colorful festival of Rath Yatra, which usually falls in March–April.

The old city of Ahmedabad will beguile the first-time visitor with its impeccable planning. There are numerous pols and self-sufficient quarters where many people from both Hindu and Muslim communities dwell. The standout features of a typical Old Ahmedabad neighborhood are the winding alleyways that extend to a square where one can find the quintessential community wells. The exclusive chabutaras (bird feeding zones) are also very prominent.

As we moved through Fernandez Bridge to Manek Chowk, where we rested briefly at a teashop, my guide Pavitran shared the legend of Manek Baba, after whom the square is named. There is also the Manek Baba Mandir nearby, where he is believed to have entered into a bottle—yes, a bottle!—to demonstrate his magical powers to Ahmed Shah, the city’s founder.

I’ve heard of museums showcasing artifacts and ancient relics—but never a museum exclusively dedicated to textiles. According to my guide Pavitran, the Calico Museum of Textiles is one of the finest in the world. From outside, the museum façade doesn’t look impressive. But the moment you step inside, a whole new world of textiles opens up before you.

Every day, discerning fashion designers as well as lay visitors come to explore this one-of-a-kind museum. We met two budding textile designers from Leeds Metropolitan University in the UK, who had come specifically to research the intricate embroidery on royal tents used by Mughal emperors. According to Daniel Anderson, one of the Brits: “This museum is a storehouse of information. The rich repository of rare textile items from the Mughal era is outstanding. We’re still at a loss to understand how craftsmen could embroider such masterpieces without sewing machines. The sheer wizardry here could put modern fashion designers to shame.”

Another surprise was the Ahmedabad Kite Museum. I was completely awestruck by the diversity of kites showcased there. An exclusive chamber artistically depicts the evolution of kites from ancient times to today. The vast collection is methodically arranged by region.

For the eternal architecture buff, a visit to Sarkhej Roza and Shah Alam Roza is a rewarding experience. Even with my rudimentary knowledge of architecture, I was fascinated by the elegance of the Sarkhej Roza complex. Within the premises, apart from the palace and intricately designed pavilions, there’s a tomb dedicated to Mehmud Shah and his queen, as well as a mosque. It’s hard to believe none of the facades use arches—instead, stone latticework is used extensively.

Sometimes, constant exposure to historical facades can be tiring, especially for those less initiated in architecture. Don’t worry! Fabulous nature-based recreational options are nearby. I especially found Kankaria Lake, which stretches for over a mile, to be very interesting with its regal palace on an island. One can enjoy boating, visit the miniature zoo, or explore the Museum of Natural History.

If you wish to escape the city altogether, the fabulous Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary is a great option. We saw a group of Japanese tourists, armed with Nikons and Canons, at strategic bird-watching points. The Japanese are among the world’s most dedicated birdwatchers, and their presence confirmed the sanctuary’s stature. You can spot flamingoes, Brahminy ducks, herons, pelicans (they’re adorable), and white storks—part of the 250+ species that breed here thanks to the lake’s favorable microclimate.

Modern-day Ahmedabad is pulsating with activity. A visit to the city’s principal promenade—glitzy C.G. Road—reveals the city’s newfound obsession with the good life. From multiplexes and water parks to exclusive clubs and top-end multi-cuisine restaurants, Ahmedabad offers a variety of entertainment options for the discerning world traveler.

As far as shopping is concerned, watch out for the big brands—Pantaloons, Circle P, Hours, Feminatown, etc. However, most visitors are obsessed with locally made Bandhani sarees, Tanchoi sarees, and intricate Zari work, which are available in central shopping areas like Bapu Nagar, Ellis Bridge, Kadia, Kalupur, Lal Darwaza, Maninagar, Raipur, and Vadaj.

Boutique stores have added a whole new dimension to Ahmedabad’s shopping scene, showcasing designs from India’s top fashion designers like Rohit Bal and Monapali in elegant boutiques such as Bandhej, Sukruti, Elan, and Kalaniketan.

For souvenir shopping, the best bets are Khadi Gram Udyog Emporia, Hastakala, Kapasi, and the Saurashtra Emporium. They’re well stocked with indigenously manufactured items, ranging from sarees to clay utensils—and the prices are moderate.

The eating out scene too is fabulous, with a plethora of quality restaurants that dot the city landscape. A typical Gujarati dish (Thali) will come with roti, daal or kadhi, basmati rice, and seasonal vegetables. The average Gujarati cuisine is very nutritious and has a sweet flavor, unlike other states of India where it is invariably spicier. I couldn’t resist the temptation of indulging my taste buds with indigenously produced sweets like Halvasan, Malpua, Sutarfeni, Shrikhand (my favorite), Basundi, Ghari & Gheabar (especially the Surat varieties), Puran Poli, Son Papdi, and a whole lot more.

I fell in love with Shrikhand, which is basically strained yogurt and is the principal dessert in the local Gujarati culinary landscape. I especially liked those with slices of mango and tidbits of dried fruits.

Some of the city’s prominent restaurants are Mirch Masala at Swastik Char Rasta, Sheeba Restaurant at Navrangpura, and Tomato’s – The Diner at C.G. Road. The latter claims to be the only American diner restaurant in India. Apart from Indian cuisine, Tomato’s also offers delectable Italian, Thai, Mexican, and Chinese fare.

For ice creams, wafers, and mango pulp, drop in at the Vadilal Soda Fountain just adjacent to Karanj Police Station.

Traveler’s fact file

Getting there

Ahmedabad is easily accessible from other parts of India. Paramount Airways operates regular flights to Ahmedabad from cities like Chennai, Coimbatore, Trivandrum, Madurai, Calcutta, Tiruchirapally, and Hyderabad.

The road and rail network linking Ahmedabad to metropolitan cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, and Kolkata is extensive. The frequency of trains operating in the Delhi and Mumbai sectors, in particular, is plentiful. Kolkata and Chennai are also well connected by trains to Ahmedabad and vice versa.

Accommodation

Ahmedabad has a wide variety of hotels to suit every budget. Among the luxury hotel properties are The Taj Residency, Ummed Airport Circle, Le Meridien, Fortune Hotel Landmark, and Cama Park Plaza, to name just a few. Most of them are centrally located and offer all the modern amenities expected of a star-category hotel. From 24-hour room service, high-speed internet connectivity, same-day laundry, mini bar, attached marbled bathroom, multi-channel TV that beams BBC, CNN, National Geographic, etc., telephones, to individual climate control (in some cases), these are offered to the discerning guests.

However, if one is looking for government-run accommodation, the Toran Gandhi Ashram Hotel, just opposite the Sabarmati Gandhi Ashram, is a very good option. There is a sense of history about this neighborhood due to the hotel’s close proximity to the Gandhi Ashram. Many tourists, despite knowing there are numerous star-category hotels in Ahmedabad, still choose to stay at the Gandhi Ashram Hotel run by the Tourism Corporation of Gujarat.

There is no dearth of budget category hotels in the city, and some popular hotels for backpackers are Hotel Siddhartha Palace, Hotel Prithvi, Hotel Bombay, Hotel Moscow, Silver Oak Club & Resort, and Hotel Riverfront, etc.