Shahjahanabad (i.e. settled and prospered by Shah Jahan), was established over 350 years ago by Mughal Sultan Shah Jahan in the heart of the modern-day national capital. The emperor chose this location for his new capital when the fort at Agra faced agonizing heat and insufficient accommodation for his lavish lifestyle and grand banquets. After consulting his astrologers and hakims, Shah Jahan selected a site south of Salimgarh to build what we now call Old Delhi. The oldest part of the capital is on the northern side, providing fascinating insights into its multi-generational eateries.

Today, the winding streets and old buildings of Shahjahanabad reflect centuries of history. The area around Jama Masjid teems with the aroma of kebabs, tikkas, and fried chicken, offering a rich glimpse into Delhi's deep-rooted food culture. Over time, the city's cuisine became a product of phenomenally diverse and rich gastronomic traditions that drew upon culinary references from Turkey, Uzbekistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Balochistan, Sindh, Punjab, Malwa, and other neighboring regions. Shahjahanabad quickly became a hub for food lovers, connoisseurs, and critics alike, a melting -pot with new flavors being crafted every day.

A blend of Mughal and Kayastha cooking traditions

There were two distinct kitchen styles in the city of Shahjahanabad. The Kayastha kitchens had bawarchis, while the Mughals had khansamah. The Mughals were known for their non-vegetarian feasts, while the Kayasthas introduced a variety of seasonal vegetarian innovations, such as fruit-flavored rabdi and samosas filled with cauliflower.

Their extremely famous gajak was a winter superfood with nuts, oils, and jaggery. The legends of Chawari Bazaar say that ladies would wait for their jewelry to be made while enjoying dahi gujiya, chaats, rabdis, and khoya parathas.

Khari Baoli, Delhi’s famous spice market, added complexity to these cuisines, offering unique ingredients like pathar ka phool (black stone flower), paan ki jad (betel root), and pippali (long pepper). These are among the secret spices that form a potli, which became the foundation for iconic dishes like nihari and qorma.

Karim’s: a cornerstone of Mughlai cuisine

In 1913, Haaji Karimuddin Sahad established Karim’s, which soon became a legend in its own right. The Urdu Bazaar gate in Purani Dilli opened up to the old Karim’s venue, witnessing many public shayaris and mehfils. At sundown, the mehfil would translate onto the palate with kebabs and tikka. Haaji’s father, Mohammad Aevad, had worked as a chef in the Mughal court before the empire's decline. Passing on the knowledge of royal dishes to his son, Haaji Karimuddin saw an opportunity during the 1911 Delhi Durbar to serve visitors. He set up a small food stall near Jama Masjid, selling just two dishes: Aloo Gosht and Daal. As his popularity grew, Karim’s became a go-to spot for those seeking authentic Mughlai flavors.

To this day, Karim’s remains a food lover’s paradise, offering dishes like mutton korma and bheja (brain curry) in an intimate setting. The restaurant is known for maintaining the authenticity of its food, using spices sourced from Khari Baoli, and preserving the traditional cooking methods passed down through generations.

The distinctive character of Mughlai cuisine

Mughlai food, in certain aspects, is very peculiar. There are two things that separate traditional Central Asian, Persian, and Afghani cooking from South Asian kitchens: the manner in which spices are used and their separate styles of cooking. In the Central Asian, Persian, and Afghan traditions, the flavors and spices are understated, whereas in the South Asian tradition, they are overwhelmingly present.

Mughlai cuisine stands apart from both its Central Asian and South Asian counterparts. While Central Asian and Persian cooking focuses more on tandoors, skewers, and subtle flavors, Mughlai dishes embrace a more robust, spicy profile. On the other hand, South Asian cooking is largely based on deep frying and bhunai (slow cooking) done in stages. Thus, the seekh kebab, shammi kebab, tikka, tandoori chicken, tandoori lamb, and all their recently evolved variations, including paneer tikkas and soya chaaps, are a gift from the lands west of the Khyber. Unlike the subtleties in taste and texture of Lucknawi food, which focuses on fine nuances, the food from Shahjahanabad hits hard with a burst of complex flavors. It is rich, generously spiced, and fulfilling.

Nalli Nihari

When the Mughals arrived in Delhi, they faced very harsh weather conditions. Upon several consultations with hakims and vaidyas, adding more spices and oil to the food was recommended to increase and sustain body heat during the dreaded Delhi winters. This is how the famous Nalli Nihari came into being. One of the quintessential recipes of the city, Nihari was born wrapped in copper deghs, slowly braised over several hours on the streets of Old Delhi.

Deriving its name from nahar (early mornings), Nihari was made by khansamahs and rakabdaars, but the recipe was supervised by the hakims. The cooks infused the oil with turmeric and fenugreek to fight ailments in the winter. The iconic dish was also quite popular with warriors, offering hearty sustenance before battle. When the royals sat over the dastarkhan in the early morning sun-soaked verandahs, Nihari was served with hot rotis from the sigree.

This gave birth to the popular Urdu couplet: "Nihari ke chaar yaar—khameera, pyaaz, adrak aur achaar."

The art of bread-making: Khameeri and Roomali Roti

Bread is central to the Mughlai dining experience, with khameeri roti (fermented bread) being a staple. This bread, fermented overnight, has a spongy texture perfect for soaking up rich gravies. Another favorite is roomali roti, a thin, soft bread named after the Urdu word for "handkerchief." According to legend, chefs originally used it to wipe down cooking surfaces before its deliciousness earned it a place in the royal kitchen.

A living tradition

The food culture of Shahjahanabad isn't just about taste—it's about heritage. From the bustling spice markets of Khari Baoli to the food stalls near Jama Masjid, the city's culinary traditions have been passed down through generations. At Karim’s, families who dined with their grandparents now bring their children, keeping the tradition alive.

Shahjahanabad’s cuisine continues to evolve, blending old recipes with new ideas, but it never stray far from its royal Mughal roots. Whether it's the bold gravies, tender kebabs, or fragrant breads, every dish reflects a city where history and food come together to create a lasting legacy.