Amidst Shahjahanabad, under the vigilant silences of the soaring domes and minarets of the Jama Masjid, something intimate and extraordinary happened. It was not a spectacle for tourists, not a public display. Instead, it was a resurrection—one gestated through scrupulous research, cultural fidelity, and dedication to reclaiming a forgotten gastronomic heritage. Dastarkhwan-e-Jahaanuma was not just an iftar; it was a carefully crafted experience infused with history, taste, and memory. It offered an immersive journey through the Mughal food world, based not on performance-nostalgia but genuine revivalism driven by oral traditions, forgotten manuscripts, and family histories.
At the center of Dastarkhwan-e-Jahaanuma lay the invitation to its readers to engage fruitfully with imperial recipes that had been consigned to memory, yellowed texts, and the fading recollections of old cooks. The word 'Jahaanuma'—translated here as "panoramic view of the world"—has a double implication here. It is a rhetorical allusion to the very iconic title of the Jama Masjid itself, evoking an image of long-distance vision and cultural crossroads. This convergence of language, geography, and taste gave the night its unique flavor—one that stretched across centuries, inductively connecting ancient cooking traditions to the present, and doing so uncompromisingly.
Whatever was presented on the dastarkhwan that evening was no greatest-hits collection of Mughlai cuisine, no restaurant watered-down menu served up for speedy consumption. These plates were painstakingly constructed from disconnected pieces—grandmothers' handed-down stories, hurried family cookbook notes, and the shared memory of communities that once kept these recipes alive. Historian Rana Safvi provided a treasured voice at the event, providing on-site commentary that brought an extra layer of historical and cultural richness to each dish, making every bite a lesson in heritage. Regarding cuisine, cultural revivalist Abu Sufiyan kept the dining going with a menu at once distinctive and elaborate, suggesting painstaking attention to process and authenticity.
The meal began with Khass ke Mashroobat—a vetiver-flavored, fragrant drink once reserved for monsoon season. Now reimagined as a cooling iftar appetizer, it was more than just a water chaser. It was a taste of history—a lesson in how Ottoman and Persian influences had once blended with Delhi’s festive tables to create sophisticated, seasonally mindful refreshments. The gentle aroma of vetiver evoked cool monsoon nights, transporting diners to a time when the royal kitchen was as much a place of sensory artistry as sustenance.
Following this delicate beginning was Shabd Degh—tender chicken braised overnight in a heavy iron cauldron. This was no ordinary slow-cooked meat; it was a near-lost art of Mughal cuisine. Even the name, Degh, is the name used for the large cooking pot employed, and the technique demanded patience, care, and time—a refuge from the frenzy of modern cuisine. The texture that was created was divine: melting-apart meat, fully infused with spice and yet provided with balance through restraint. It was a culinary echo of the banquets of court, where taste had been achieved through the slow alchemy of time and art.
The second highlight was Batear ke Mutanjan: saffron-flavored sweet rice, covered in candied fruits and typically served with quail. This was the pinnacle of imperial innovation with game and sugar craft. The saffron's yellow, with the delicate sweetness of candied fruits, was a visual and a flavor delight. The quail, a rare ingredient on contemporary stoves, spoke of a culinary boldness and sense that was characteristic of Mughal imperial dining. There was no reimagining or reinvention of this dish; it was left in its uncompromised form, proof of resurrection through recreation.
Haleem, a dish one may claim to have known, was next—but one that was by no means ordinary. Cooked for twelve hours with cracked wheat, lentils, and slow-cooked meat, this version of the dish paid homage to ancient communal-style cooking. It started in the morning and didn't finish until sunset, taking devotion and resolve. The long time was to permit the ingredients to merge together into a rich, warming porridge that has not only memory in the way it tastes but also in the laborious process of making it. The act of eating this haleem was one of solidarity—to the forebears who prepared it, to shared practice, and to the sacred rhythms of the day.
The meal concluded with Mughlai Kheer served alongside Baker Khane ki Roti and the celebratory Zarda—a sweet rice dish flavored with saffron and sugar. Each bite was a whispered word of stories from imperial banquets, traveling through time to wedding banquets today and festive celebrations across the subcontinent. The sweets were not leftovers but important cultural artifacts—confections that had traveled centuries and weathered the trials of history.
But the significance of the evening extended far beyond the plate. Every dish was prefaced by a brief tale, expertly blending the ceremonial function of the dish in royal cooking, the journeys of its ingredients across continents and centuries, and its eventual disappearance from common usage. These stories raised the meal above taste, giving guests the unusual opportunity to learn, to reflect upon, and to participate in food heritage preservation.
Dastarkhwan-e-Jahaanuma is strong proof that preservation of heritage is not always grand monuments or museums. It can begin small—a kitchen, a story, a meal shared. It leads us to consider how foodways are the living history of culture, memory, and identity. Through careful revivalism, this event brought back to life a lost world, reminding us that the richness of the past is best kept not only in books but on the plate.