Tunisia: the magnet for foreign artists

Colour possesses me. I don't have to pursue it. It will possess me always, I know it. That is the meaning of this happy hour: colour and I are one. I am a painter.

These words capture the pinnacle of an artist’s journey, a moment of pure clarity when the outside world fades and all that remains is the harmony of colours, light, and sensation. It is in this state that an artist truly understands their purpose and the essence of their existence. This is what Tunisia offered to the Swiss-German painter Paul Klee during his 1914 journey alongside August Macke and Louis Moilliet.

During this trip, Klee and Macke experienced an intense awakening to colour, form, and light, an impression so profound that it shaped their artistic evolution at the dawn of modern abstract art. Art historians view this journey as a pivotal moment, marking the transition from German Expressionism to non-figurative, abstract, and modern art, particularly for Klee. Today, it is recognised as a key event in 20th-century art history.

What makes Tunisia an artistic haven?

Tunisia, once home to the mighty Carthaginian Empire, has long been a place where art flourishes. Situated at the crossroads of the Mediterranean, the Carthaginian Empire stretched across vast territories, from modern-day Tunisia to parts of Sicily, southern Spain, and Sardinia. Known for their naval dominance and extensive trade networks, the Carthaginians created a civilisation shaped by their geographical position between Africa and Europe. Carthage, which still carries the same name today, was a thriving hub that left a lasting legacy of culture, innovation, and art.

The Carthaginians developed their own unique artistic expressions, including intricate mosaics, sculptures, and ceramics that reflected both their craftsmanship and Mediterranean connections. This rich artistic heritage continues to influence Tunisia’s dynamic art scene, where the past and present seamlessly intertwine.

After the fall of Carthage in 146 BCE, Tunisia became part of the Roman Empire, ushering in another significant chapter in its artistic history. The Romans brought monumental architecture, detailed frescoes, and mosaics, which became some of the region’s most enduring artistic expressions. The Bardo Museum in Tunis houses some of the finest Roman mosaics, offering a glimpse into the region's pivotal role in ancient artistic exchange.

In the centuries that followed, Tunisia became an integral part of the Islamic world, blending Arab, Berber, and Ottoman influences into its art. This period saw the development of intricate calligraphy, geometric patterns, and elaborate tilework, as seen in monuments like the Zitouna Mosque and the Great Mosque of Kairouan. The region's architecture became a symbol of the fusion between tradition and innovation, deeply influencing the art of North Africa and beyond.

Tunisia's strategic location has made it a cultural crossroads for centuries. From the Phoenician and Roman periods to the French Protectorate in the 19th and early 20th centuries, Tunisia’s unique position between Africa and Europe has continually attracted artists and intellectuals. Its landscapes, rich history, and vibrant colours have made it a canvas for creativity and innovation, leaving a lasting mark on global artistic movements.

Alongside this, Tunisia’s natural beauty has also been a crucial source of inspiration for artists throughout history. From the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean to the sweeping, bright sun, the hills, mountains, and lush green landscapes with waterfalls in the north, Tunisia offers a rich and varied canvas for creativity. The country’s diverse geography, from the arid desert plains to the fertile coastal regions, provides a unique blend of contrasts that have inspired many to capture the vivid colours and emotions evoked by such surroundings.

Does Tunisia still inspire today's Artists?

Throughout history, Tunisia has often served as a refuge for artists seeking to step beyond the familiar boundaries of their creative environments. Drawn by its shifting light, layered history, and rich blend of cultures, many have come to Tunisia not only to escape, but to transform their artistic language. From European painters of the 19th and early 20th centuries to writers, photographers, and filmmakers, Tunisia has long offered a space where artistic vision can reset and evolve.

Today, that tradition continues. Ksenia Filippova, a Russian painter, shared that she has always felt a strong pull toward the Mediterranean: “I’ve always been particularly drawn to the colours, light, and ambiance of the Mediterranean. I’ve spent a lot of time painting in Spain, Greece, and Italy. These places are well known. But there’s another side to the Mediterranean that feels even more intriguing because of its originality and untapped richness.”

Ksenia first visited Tunisia nearly 20 years ago as a professional photographer, working on a series of reportages. The experience left such a deep impression on her that she felt compelled to return, this time not with a camera but with brushes and paint, ready to rediscover the country through a new artistic lens.

Ksenia Filippova at a group exhibition titled “Lumières Familiales - Récits du Ramadan” at the Mövenpick Hotel du Lac Tunis in Tunis, Tunisia, her painting “Thé à la menthe, café, étoiles” (110×80 cm, canvas, acrylic) on display.

Ksenia describes Tunisia as a place that has profoundly impacted her artistic vision. The country, she says, offers vibrant, clear colours that contrast sharply with the more subdued tones typical of European landscapes. This heightened palette doesn’t just influence her work on a formal level, it also resonates emotionally. "I get to transmit much clearer emotions," she reflects, emphasising how Tunisia has allowed her to express feeling with a new kind of clarity and depth. Beyond the colours, Tunisia’s lively public life, where people interact in streets, cafes, and public spaces, adds a human dimension to the landscape that she deeply enjoys observing. The society’s strong attachment to its traditions offers a pure expression of life, which, as a foreigner, Ksenia finds both striking and pleasurable to witness.

Ksenia mentions that painting live on the streets of Tunisia has been a particularly pleasant experience. Unlike her experiences in other countries, she notes that Tunisians are exceptionally respectful and appreciative of art. "They admire the work without crossing personal boundaries, always asking permission before taking photographs." She finds this deep respect for art to be more pronounced in Tunisia compared to other places she’s worked, making it a uniquely rewarding environment for artists.

Ksenia Filippova painting in Sidi Bou Saïd, Tunisia. (60x80 cm oil on canvas).

From the other side of Europe, we have Pierre Gassin, a French photographer who chose Kerkennah (a Tunisian island off the coast of Sfax), as his new home and artistic starting point. Pierre first came to Tunisia in 2000 to relax after a busy year and was immediately drawn to the simplicity of the people, their harmony, and the closeness of relationships, qualities that reminded him of his grandparents' way of life. He had long planned to move to a new country and be closer to the sea, something he felt was essential. After traveling the world in search of the perfect location, it was the Mediterranean that called to him, and he eventually settled in Kerkennah after visiting Djerba, Sfax, and Tunis.

A passionate photographer since childhood, Pierre sought to share his art with Tunisia, teaching photography to local youth and even proposing educational programs at art schools. Despite the lack of support, he established the “Palais de la Photographie” in Sfax, a project that exceeded his expectations. However, it was ultimately shut down due to local disinterest.

Now based in Kerkennah, Pierre continues to work independently, occasionally with assistants. He has created a photo gallery and is working on launching a resource centre focused on Tunisia’s cultural and maritime heritage, aiming to train young reporters on these subjects.

Pierre Gassin at his gallery in Kerkennah, Tunisia.

Pierre’s photography is rooted in capturing everyday life and the natural simplicity of existence. During the COVID-19 lockdown, he found refuge in Kerkennah, where the endless horizon inspired him to publish calming, dreamlike images from his terrace, stripped of visual noise to highlight pure moments. He sees this as a form of visual hypnosis, images meant to soothe and inspire. Trained in traditional photography, with deep respect for light, texture, and contrast, he avoids filters and effects, believing nature speaks for itself.

In Tunisia, especially in Kerkennah, he found a landscape of subtle, rare light that aligns perfectly with his artistic values. While he avoids photographing people out of cultural sensitivity, he focuses on documenting environmental and local initiatives, aiming to show real life as it evolves. For Pierre, photography is about witnessing, not performing, a philosophy passed down by his mentor, the great Willy Ronis.

For Pierre, the challenges of living in Tunisia were not just expected; they were part of the journey he sought. “I wanted to start from scratch in a place where I knew nothing and no one,” he says. The discovery of religion and the weight of the word interdit contrasted sharply with his upbringing in total freedom. But early on, he met a young man who became a cultural guide, helping him navigate local customs and beliefs.

That relationship has proven invaluable, especially for his current work on the Berber roots of southern Tunisia. What continues to surprise him is the country’s immense cultural wealth, from Gafsa (a region in southwest Tunisia with one of the oldest continuous human settlements in North Africa) to ancient cave paintings dating back millennia. Through his photography, Pierre aims to reflect Tunisia’s generous everyday life and deep natural beauty, while offering a hopeful counterpoint to the surrounding pessimism.

An old stone building in Kerkennah, Tunisia, stands quietly against the deepening hues of sunset, a testament to the island’s timeless simplicity, image taken by Pierre Gassin.

The sailboats of Kerkennah, Tunisia, reflect a simpler way of life, moving in rhythm with the sun, sea, and sky, just as they have for generations, image taken by Pierre Gassin.

Tunisia has long been a haven for artists seeking renewal, offering both a space and a connection to something deeper. For Ksenia, Pierre, and others, it’s more than a place to create, it’s where they rediscover their art, their purpose, and themselves. Tunisia’s blend of past and present continues to inspire, leaving an imprint on every brushstroke and photograph. So, if you're an artist looking for a place to break free from the ordinary, what are you waiting for?