The global fashion weeks for Autumn/Winter 2024-2025 and Spring/Summer 2025 delivered a mix of nostalgia, bold innovation, and socially conscious designs, each show reflecting its own distinctive vision. Let's take a closer look at the highlights and key trends from the major fashion capitals, alongside the upcoming talents making waves.

Paris Fashion Week: high drama and rebirth

Paris remains the epicenter of high fashion, with Schiaparelli opening its Haute Couture show on an artistic note. The brand's creative director, Daniel Roseberry, drew on classic inspirations, channeling surrealist themes with pieces like a chrome bird-winged gown. Schiaparelli’s presentation was rooted in fantasy, setting a dramatic tone for the season. Another standout was Elie Saab, who ventured into darker, gothic aesthetics. Known for his typically feminine designs, Saab surprised audiences with bold, webbed bodices and cloaked figures, evoking mystery and sophistication​.

Pharrell Williams, debuting as the new creative head at Louis Vuitton, fused streetwear with high-fashion elements. His SS25 collection was a fresh take on classic LV motifs, with tailored jackets, bombers, and velvety finishes reflecting his contemporary, pop-cultural influences​.

Milan Fashion Week: innovation and practicality

Milan’s runways were marked by a strong return to structured silhouettes and wearable art. Prada’s collection reflected an innovative reimagining of work uniforms, while Bottega Veneta, under Matthieu Blazy, offered timeless essentials, including tailored peacoats and oversized shirts that combined practicality with luxury. Diesel, ever the avant-garde, brought sheer drama to its show, integrating transparency with an interactive element that included a virtual audience of 700​.

Meanwhile, rising designers in Milan are also stepping into the spotlight. Matthieu Tamburini’s debut at Tod’s showcased a unique blend of formal and leisure wear, highlighting versatility and comfort—an ethos that perfectly matches today’s post-pandemic fashion landscape​.

London Fashion Week: bold expression and social activism

London, always a hub of creativity, saw designers intertwining fashion with activism. A$ap Rocky’s AWGE brand used its platform to address socio-political issues through its "American Sabotage" show, where art met activism, calling for a re-examination of cultural narratives. On a different note, BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Karoline Vitto made headlines by celebrating body diversity, casting models of varying shapes and sizes to redefine beauty standards​.

Notably, Charlotte Tilbury’s partnership with Zuhair Murad for beauty looks also stole the spotlight in London, with exaggerated cat eyes being a key beauty trend for the season​.

New York Fashion Week: nostalgia and reinvention

Across the pond in New York, the runways were alive with '90s nostalgia. Daniel Lee’s collection for Burberry, for example, played heavily on British and Irish heritage, featuring oversized, woolen coats that harked back to earlier times while adding a modern twist. Hedi Slimane’s Celine show, off the official schedule, paid tribute to iconic photographer Richard Avedon, blending '60s style with Slimane’s signature minimalism.

Upcoming designers in New York continue to push boundaries, like Peter Do at Helmut Lang, who infused sleek tailoring with streetwise sensibilities, creating a bridge between formal wear and everyday fashion.

Emerging trends for 2024-2025

Across all fashion weeks, several trends emerged that will shape the coming seasons:

  • Sheer and transparent fabrics: whether at Diesel or Saint Laurent, transparent layers and sheer designs are being used to project both literal and metaphorical transparency. These looks emphasize empowerment and body positivity, while also offering sultry, ethereal vibes​.

  • Bold silhouettes: strong, structured shapes continue to dominate. From Dior’s return to power dressing with S-shaped silhouettes to Balenciaga’s use of cocoon sleeves, designers are redefining traditional forms with futuristic touches​.

  • Sustainability and innovation: Balenciaga’s "disappearing dress," which can only be worn once, and Iris van Herpen’s commitment to wearable art highlight the growing influence of sustainability in fashion. Designers are increasingly aware of the environmental impact and are experimenting with new materials and concepts​.

  • Nostalgia: from Burberry’s homage to classic British textiles to Chanel’s reinvention of founder Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel’s designs, the influence of past decades, particularly the '90s and '60s, is evident on many runways. The trend reflects a yearning for familiar, comforting aesthetics amid a rapidly changing world​.

Rising stars to watch

Among the new names making waves are:

  • Karoline Vitto, who has redefined body positivity at London Fashion Week with her size-inclusive collections.

  • Matteo Tamburini at Tod's, whose relaxed, luxurious debut resonated with the Milan crowd.

  • Peter Do, who is reinvigorating Helmut Lang with his blend of minimalism and streetwear influences.

In conclusion, the latest fashion weeks have been a celebration of creativity, heritage, and innovation. Designers, both established and emerging, are responding to societal shifts with collections that push boundaries, embrace diversity, and experiment with new forms of expression. From Paris to New York, the runways are alive with fresh energy, signaling exciting times ahead for fashion.