As the fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny over its environmental footprint, a new wave of bio-based textiles is emerging. Researchers and designers are turning to bacteria and fungi to create sustainable, biodegradable fabrics that could revolutionize clothing production. Mycelium, the root-like structure of fungi, and bacterial cellulose, a byproduct of microbial fermentation, are proving to be viable alternatives to traditional textiles. What makes these materials even more compelling is their connection to the food industry—many of these bio-based fabrics can be grown using food waste as a nutrient source. This article explores how bacterial and fungal fabrics are paving the way for a circular, sustainable fashion industry and their potential applications beyond apparel.

From lab to fabric: the rise of mycelium and bacterial textiles

Mycelium: the underground revolution

Mycelium, the vegetative part of fungi, consists of a dense network of thread-like structures called hyphae. These natural fibers are not only lightweight and flexible but also have remarkable strength and durability, making them ideal for textile applications. Mycelium-based fabrics are grown through a controlled fermentation process in which fungal spores feed on organic materials such as agricultural residues or food industry byproducts.

Brands like Bolt Threads and MycoWorks have pioneered mycelium-based leather alternatives, which mimic the texture and performance of animal leather but decompose naturally at the end of their life cycle. Unlike synthetic leathers, which rely on petroleum-based plastics, mycelium fabrics are entirely biodegradable and can be produced with minimal resource input.

Bacterial cellulose: the microbial silk

Bacterial cellulose is a biopolymer produced by certain strains of bacteria, such as Acetobacter xylinum, during fermentation. Unlike plant-derived cellulose, which requires intensive processing, bacterial cellulose grows naturally in a gel-like mat that can be harvested and processed into fabric.

One of the most exciting aspects of bacterial cellulose textiles is their potential for customization—scientists can manipulate growth conditions to create fabrics with specific properties such as enhanced breathability, water resistance, or antimicrobial characteristics. Companies like Nanollose are using bacterial cellulose to develop tree-free fibers, reducing the environmental impact associated with traditional textile manufacturing.

The food industry connection: transforming waste into fashion

Feeding fashion with food waste

One of the most significant advantages of bacterial and fungal textiles is their ability to grow on organic waste materials, creating a bridge between the food industry and sustainable fashion. Instead of relying on virgin raw materials, these bio-based fabrics utilize food industry byproducts that would otherwise contribute to environmental waste.

For example:

  • Mycelium textiles can be cultivated on spent grains from beer production, coffee grounds, or fruit peels.

  • Bacterial cellulose thrives in fermentation environments that use byproducts from kombucha brewing, fruit juice production, or sugar refining.

This integration aligns with the principles of a circular economy, where waste from one industry becomes the raw material for another, reducing overall environmental impact.

Reducing water and chemical use

Traditional textile production, especially cotton and synthetic fibers, is notoriously water-intensive and relies on harsh chemicals. In contrast, bacterial and fungal textiles can be cultivated using significantly less water and require no pesticides, fertilizers, or toxic dyes. Additionally, their production can take place in urban settings, reducing the carbon footprint associated with transportation and land use.

Applications beyond fashion: technical and industrial uses

While mycelium and bacterial fabrics are gaining traction in sustainable fashion, their potential extends far beyond clothing. These bio-based materials have structural and functional properties that make them suitable for various industrial applications.

Performance textiles and protective gear

Scientists are exploring ways to engineer bacterial cellulose textiles with high tensile strength and self-healing properties, making them ideal for performance wear, sports gear, and even military applications. The natural breathability of these fabrics also makes them excellent for medical textiles, such as wound dressings or antimicrobial hospital uniforms.

Biodegradable packaging and interior design

Beyond textiles, mycelium-based materials are being used to develop biodegradable packaging, insulation panels, and furniture. Companies like Ecovative are producing mycelium-based foams that can replace polystyrene packaging, further demonstrating the versatility of fungal materials.

Challenges and the road ahead

Despite their promising potential, bacterial and fungal fabrics face several challenges before they can become mainstream.

Scaling up production

Currently, the production of bio-based textiles is still in the early stages, with scalability being a major hurdle. Growing mycelium or bacterial cellulose on a commercial scale requires optimized fermentation techniques, controlled environments, and investment in biomanufacturing infrastructure. Companies must refine their production processes to meet the demands of global textile markets.

Consumer perception and market adoption

While sustainable fashion is on the rise, widespread consumer adoption of bacterial and fungal textiles will depend on factors such as price, durability, and aesthetic appeal. Many consumers are still unfamiliar with bio-based fabrics, making education and marketing strategies crucial in building trust and demand.

Conclusion: a new era for textiles

Bacterial and fungal fabrics are more than just a niche innovation—they represent a fundamental shift in how we produce textiles, offering a pathway toward a circular, waste-free fashion industry. By leveraging food waste as a growth medium, these bio-based textiles not only reduce the environmental impact of fashion but also create synergies between industries, fostering a more sustainable and resource-efficient economy.

As advancements in biotechnology and material science continue, we can expect to see more brands and designers incorporating mycelium and bacterial cellulose into their collections. The future of fashion is growing—literally—one microbe at a time.