Thousands of candles can be lighted from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared.

(Buddha)

Southeast Asia boasts of an insurmountable number of well-preserved ancient cities, but Hoi An in central Vietnam exudes quite an unforgettable charm.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, Hoi An flourished as the commercial capital of the Kingdom of Champa between the 9th and 17th centuries. The Cham people belonged to an Austronesian ethnic minority group that occupied much of central and lower Vietnam during those times.

The rivers surrounding Hoi An posed a strategic location for the Portuguese explorers to build a trading port within the city in 1535. Active trading among Chinese, Japanese, and European merchants resulted to diverse cultural influences, as mirrored by the mass of old-world architecture from such countries plotted across the city. It is no surprise that the bewitching archaism continues to mesmerize visitors till today.

To avoid the bustle of tourists, a morning stroll around the Old Town is the best time to marvel at the picturesque streets, lined with about over a thousand timber-framed century-old buildings in bright yellow facades, and trimmed with hanging pink bougainvillea and yellow Dalbergia or yellow rosewood flowers.

At present, converted into shops, restaurants, cafés and few remaining residences, these sturdy buildings are constructed with brick or wooden walls, yin and yang tile roofs (alternate tiles facing up and down), French colonial balustrades, and French window shutters—some in pretty turquoise blue, complementing the sunny yellow painted exterior.

One can also find intricate mother-of-pearl inlaid wooden doors and multicolored suspended lanterns that shimmer exquisitely at night. For any art and architecture enthusiast like myself, wandering through these alleys is an absolute inspiration.

Perhaps, the most photographed structure in the ancient town is the Japanese Bridge. Erected in 1593, the bridge, stretching eighteen meters long, linked the Tran Phu Street (Chinese quarter) on the eastern side and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street (Japanese quarter) on the western side. The impressive design consists of a red lacquered wooden top and stone base.

The Japanese-styled curved roof is decorated with yin and yang patterns, reflecting Vietnamese culture, although the overall architecture culminates local, Japanese and Chinese materials and ornamentation. Crossing this bridge, crowded with corridors, benches and a throng of visitors moving back and forth incessantly is quite a feat. One would need a brief pause by the parapets and leisurely absorb the peaceful scenery over the Thu Bon River.

Another antiquated gem not far from the Japanese Bridge is the Tan Ky Old House, built in 1741 as the residence of the Ky family generation. The house also served as a trading post for local and foreign merchants in the 18th-19th centuries.

Facing the Thu Bon River, the residence retains its faded appearance, epitomizing Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese styles. Inside, the four rooms (foyer, living room, courtyard, and bedroom) are adequately furnished with antiques and family memorabilia. Walls expose distinctive mosaic art and columns with Chinese poem inscriptions embossed on mother-of-pearls.

For a taste of age-old Chinese architecture, the 18th century Quan Thang Ancient House stands out boldly perpendicular to Tran Phu Street and the busy commercial Nguyen Thai Hoc Street. The 300 square-meter house originally belonged to the Chinese captain and merchant Quan Thang. The interior layout is patterned after the typical Chinese Huaxia region long-tubed shape without a second floor. The crab-shelled roof, Chinese porcelain decorated walls, and small roof terrace with an aquarium and surrounding trees all attest the unique features of the residence.

A special entrance ticket is required to enter about five out of twenty-two heritage sites (of your choice) inside the Old Town. These cover the aforementioned buildings, plus Đức An House, Fujian Assembly Hall, Hoi An Museum of History and Culture, Museum of Trade Ceramics, Quan Công Temple, Quan Am Pagoda, and many others. Otherwise, admiring them from outside is free.

Quaint-looking restaurants and cafés accented by historical art pieces and ornaments are plenty to choose from, pulling back memories from over 200 years ago. Upon entering, one instantly notices the open layout with a central courtyard, sided with plants. The area was used historically as the foyer for receiving guests.

The open space contributes greatly to natural sunlight and the soothing breeze. Multifarious styled balconies come in wood with Chinese geometrical motifs or concrete with a European curvilinear touch. Many places serve traditional and fusion dishes, and healthy organic menus.

Among these, Grandma Kitchen and Poison Café sit along the Thu Bon River, providing spectacular views. Time passes languidly while relishing coconut coffee and watching a local woman in a “nón lá” Vietnamese hat on a bicycle stride along, or frolicking school children unabashedly approach tourists to practice English.

For more European architecture, the old French quarter at Phan Bội Châu Street, adjacent to the Old Town is a worthwhile stop. Likewise, facing the river and the Hoi An Memories Land, the lovely street is flanked by numerous art galleries, novelty shops, restaurants and hotels. It was formerly named Courbet Street after the French admiral, and is being groomed to be Hoi An’s art and craft neighborhood. Like the ancient town, buildings glimmer in yellow painted walls, reminiscent of southern France.

Finally, no one misses the Hoi An Lantern Festival celebrated monthly during the full moon. Thousands of glowing lanterns light up the enchanted city. Boat passengers on the Thu Bon River make a wish for good luck and happiness, then release various-designed silk and paper floating lanterns on the water. The illuminating spectacle truly feasts the eyes. Cultural performances, traditional games, and other programs also take place, marking it the city’s most vibrant and auspicious event.

Outside the city, exclusive tours to 4th-13th century My Son Sanctuary, Marble Mountain and Am Phu Caves in Da Nang, Cam Thanh Coconut Jungle, Stone Carving Village, Tra Que Vegetable Village, beaches, and more notable sites offer a comprehensive experience of central Vietnamese life and culture.

The endless climb inside the Am Phu Caves could be quite strenuous, so be sure to arrive physically fit. The basket boat ride through the luscious coconut groves is rather amusing and feels like a wild jungle adventure. While a live DJ music stage and rotating boatman performance may camouflage the intended pristine wilderness, the captivating sight of colorful round boats side by side, engulfed by huge coconut trees perfectly paints the rich and ethereal nature throughout the city.

In Hoi An, nostalgia breathes not only a stolen moment to cherish the past, but more importantly, to rekindle a spirit of peace and genial encounters as the city’s name embodies.