"Forget Your Past," reads the graffiti above the entrance to the Buzludzha Monument, an extraordinary, abandoned structure left to decay for the last three decades. The monument's striking, almost post-apocalyptic aesthetic, a result of its damaged yet unique socialist-futuristic imagery, now draws in many visitors. Nestled in Bulgaria's remote mountains, this monument stands as one of the most, if not the most, interesting remnants of the country’s communist history. Resembling a UFO that has landed on a hill, this building is among the most unique examples of Brutalist architecture globally.
The Buzludzha Monument's story started in the 1950s. The socialist government planned to build a large monument on Buzludzha Peak (1432 meters high) in the Balkan Mountains. The competition guidelines, sponsored by the state, specified a large red star as a necessary feature of the monument's design. The choice of the monument's location is linked to some historical events. Firstly, Buzludzha Peak was where famous Bulgarian national revolutionaries Stefan Karadzha and Hadzhi Dimitar fought their last battle against the Ottomans. Secondly, the same site hosted the first Bulgarian socialist congress in 1891, giving birth to the Bulgarian Social Democratic Workers’ Party, the precursor to the Bulgarian Communist Party. At the Buzludzha Monument's opening, Todor Zhivkov, Bulgaria's last socialist leader, highlighted the peak's significance, stating, "The eagle's nest where our party's flight began."
The construction of the monument, officially called the Memorial House of the Bulgarian Communist Party at Buzludzha Peak, commenced in 1974, years after the initial plans were approved. Completed in 1981, the project was a seven-year process funded by public donations. The construction involved more than 6000 workers; this included volunteers and 500 soldiers from the Construction Corps, a military branch specializing in infrastructure projects.
The monument's 1981 unveiling was deliberate, coinciding with the 1300th anniversary of the First Bulgarian State and the 90th anniversary of the first socialist Bulgarian party. Between 1981 and 1989, over 2 million people visited the monument; this is quite impressive considering the country's population was less than 9 million. While entry was free for visitors, the monument's size necessitated a coordinated entry system. Foreign diplomatic missions, along with children and students on guided tours, were shown this "glorious masterpiece of Bulgarian socialism."
The monument functioned as both a ceremonial hall and a visual representation of communist ideals. The walls featured mosaics that showcased Bulgarian history, communist leaders, and working-class imagery. These stunning mosaics, covering over 1000 square meters, boast 42 colors, including natural stones from Bulgarian rivers and 35 tons of cobalt glass. The central space, a large circular hall, features a massive hammer and sickle decorating the ceiling, bearing the inscription "Proletarians of the world, unite!" Lenin and Marx are the largest figures depicted in the hall's mosaics; Todor Zhivkov, Bulgaria's leader at the time, is also featured, an unusual occurrence since the norm was to portray only deceased leaders. In a twist of fate, his was the first face to be destroyed in the aftermath of the regime's collapse.
In addition to the round main hall, the tower is the second part of the monument. From its 70-meter height, the tower provides a sweeping view across the Balkan mountain range. The tower's two large, red glass stars are severely damaged as during the 90s thieves attempted to steal them, wrongly assuming they were rubies. Produced in Kyiv, these red stars were the world's largest. In addition, to emphasize the monument's stunning impact, powerful lights illuminated the stars of the tower, making them visible from the Romanian border in the north to the Greek border in the south.
Abandoned after 1989, the monument suffered from vandalism and lack of maintenance. Despite seven years of construction, it was used for only eight years before the regime's collapse. The heating equipment and metal items, including the doors, were stolen and sold. In addition, intruders damaged the interior mosaics and decorations. Decades of neglect led to structural deterioration, with the monument collapsing in several places, particularly on the roof. As a result, harsh weather has damaged parts of the mosaics, and they continue to deteriorate due to roof leaks that let in rain, snow, and wind. Its mountainous setting also presents further difficulties for the monument, with strong winds and temperatures as low as -25°C.
Despite the state and local administration largely neglecting it, the monument retained some interest from certain groups. Thousands attend the annual meetings of the Bulgarian Socialist Party (ex-Bulgarian Communist Party) at Buzludzha Peak. The party's past attempts to acquire the Buzludzha Monument failed as current legislation prevents the uncompensated transfer of state-owned property to private persons and groups. Aside from attracting political groups, the monument's visibility and popularity have increased in recent years, coinciding with the rise of “urban exploration (urbex) tourism; it now receives daily visitors. However, visitor effects combined with the monument's poor condition are causing rapid interior decay. Consequently, the monument's interior is now closed and guarded.
Finally, in a relatively recent effort to save the Buzludzha Monument, volunteers and researchers established the Buzludzha Project Foundation. Various projects aim to renovate the monument for cultural events (such as exhibitions and concerts) while avoiding any political glorification. Because of their efforts, the monument was listed among Europe's 7 most endangered sites in 2018. A $185,000 grant for a preservation plan was awarded by the Getty Foundation in 2019. The mosaics began to be restored in 2020. This, however, is just the start. The total cost of renovating it could reach approximately 7 million euros.
Hope remains for the Buzludzha Monument's preservation, although it's a difficult task. Although Bulgaria's communist past carries negative associations, its architecture from that era possesses a unique appeal. The preservation of such structures is not about idolizing the past; it is about recognizing their place in the country’s history. Because of its distinctive design and historical significance, the Buzludzha Monument is a treasured part of Bulgaria's heritage, worthy of preservation and research for years to come. So, instead of saying, "Forget your past," we should say, "Learn from your past."