It was early June 2024, and I unexpectedly had some weeks off. Those who know me are aware of my incapacity to just stay home and chill out, so I immediately thought of planning a last-minute trip. Southeast Asia was calling, and Vietnam, with its rich history, stunning landscapes, and warm hospitality, was the clear choice.
Known for its rich history, breathtaking landscapes, and fine gastronomy, its S-shape—long and thin—makes it easy to explore, following the natural route from south to north or vice versa. Moving within the country is easy, with a very good infrastructure of night trains, surprisingly comfortable sleeper buses, and low-cost flights for those who have less time to lose. The kindness and hospitality of the people make Vietnam a remarkably safe destination. Either you are planning to visit the Asian country, or you are just curious about it, get your backpack ready—and do not forget waterproof clothes, as the weather in Vietnam is pretty unpredictable—and join me throughout the 3-week trip I did.
Ho Chi Minh city: a chaotic gateway to Vietnam's history
I decided to start my trip in the south, in the city named after who is considered the father of the Vietnamese country: Ho Chi Minh City, the old Saigon, which was the capital of South Vietnam until the country was reunified in 1975. Hot and oppressively humid year-round, the first word that comes to mind when visiting Ho Chi Minh City is chaos. With over 9 million inhabitants and almost the same number of scooters circulating its streets, the noises, the lights, and the traffic are just crazy. But it is part of its charm.
The vestiges of the war are still very present in the city, with the War Remnants Museum being a must for all visitors. It provides insight into the causes and course of the Vietnam War, as well as its lasting impact on society. Some images are very explicit and leave you emotionally shaken, but it is worth the visit. In the outskirts of the city, undoubtedly the best attraction is the complex of the Cu Chi Tunnels, an extensive network of underground tunnels built by the Viet Cong during the war as part of their guerrilla warfare strategy. Unmissable to understand how the Vietnamese resistance lived. A good complement for this day trip could be visiting the Mekong Delta, its canals, and floating markets.
Central Vietnam: heritage, beaches, and the imperial city
From Ho Chi Minh City, I took a flight—the only internal one of the trip—to Da Nang, a metropolis in the central part of the country surrounded by some of the most beautiful cities in Vietnam. Right on its south is the town of Hoi An. I had high expectations, having read that Travel + Leisure magazine ranked it the fourth most beautiful city in the world, and it did not disappoint. The city used to be an important trading port from the 15th to the 19th century, and its ancient town is exceptionally well preserved, with several of its heritage buildings being open to visitors. When the night comes, hundreds of lantern boats conquer the river, creating a movie scene difficult to forget. After the lantern festival, for those who are night owls, Hoi An also offers a vibrant nightlife. After a long night, one can relax on the nice beaches and beach resorts close to the city. And why not explore the submarine fauna scuba diving with one of the many diving schools established there?
The next stop was Hue, the ancient capital of the Vietnamese Empire during the 19th century. A 3-hour bus ride is needed to get there, but those who are more adventurous can ride a bike along the coast and through the Hai Van Pass, for some the most beautiful mountain pass in the country. Some companies offer luggage transfer services to Hue, allowing you to fully enjoy the ride. A day is enough to visit Hue. Its imperial citadel—including a forbidden city inside—was mostly demolished during the war, but it is worth spending some time there. But the most interesting part is visiting the Imperial Tombs, a series of royal burial sites that greatly differ from each other, taking you to the imperial era. Astonishing mausoleums and pavilions, terracotta sculptures, and tranquil gardens and lakes await you there.
Ninh Binh: Halong Bay on Land
Moving north and after spending the night in a sleeper bus—yes, in Vietnam, all long-distance buses have actual beds inside, and they are surprisingly comfortable—I reached Ninh Binh, a hidden paradise with impressive landscapes. Though a mountain region, Ninh Binh's lush rice fields and placid lakes have earned it the nickname "Halong Bay on Land." Using Tam Coc as a base, it is worth exploring the winding roads by bicycle or motorbike to visit Hang Mua Cave—and climbing its 500 steps, after which you will have the best view of the whole trip—the Bich Dong Pagoda—carved in stone—or Trang An, from where a boat can take you on a tour through astonishing caves, temples, and lakes surrounded by mountains.
Sapa: the most iconic landscape of Vietnam
After experiencing the natural beauty of Ninh Binh, I, as a recreational hiker, set my sights on the mountains of the Sapa region. While the village of Sapa itself has little to offer, it serves as a gateway to hikes through the endless rice terraces, an iconic image of Vietnam. Many tours can be booked online, but I suggest you do what I did to live the most authentic experience: book nothing on the internet and just walk to the Notre Dame Cathedral square in downtown Sapa. There you will find dozens of women offering a homestay. In other words, you walk with them several hours up the mountains to their villages, share the afternoon and night at their homes with their family, and then stay as long as you want doing day trekking. There are none of the amenities of a hotel, but I assure you it is an experience you will never forget. Just approach them, be open-minded, and when you feel a match with any of them, agree on the price and enjoy the adventure. Make sure you have your trekking shoes with you! Despite the hike difficulty not being the highest—nor the lowest—during the rainy season, you will have to go through some paths covered by mud.
The Ha Giang Loop: Vietnam’s hidden gem for the bold and adventurous
Everything you read until now can be easily found in most travel guides and blogs about Vietnam. But there is a pretty unknown experience—not suitable for everybody—that is worth enjoying: the Ha Giang Loop. In the most northern region of Vietnam, close to the Chinese border, the 3- to 4-day round trip is getting popular among the most young and adventurous visitors. What is it about? Always with a local operator, you discover the region riding a motorcycle—either yourself or easy riding with a professional driver. Breathtaking landscapes unfold every 20 minutes, with winding roads and views that leave you in awe. An experience not to be told but to be lived. Traveling with a small group, you drive together, eat together, and sleep together while the adventure lasts, offering a unique opportunity to connect with people from all around the world. If you give it a go, check the weather, as heavy rains leave the roads inaccessible from time to time.
Hanoi and Halong bay: a captivating finale to an unforgettable journey
After almost 20 days wandering around, there was only one stop left for my trip: Hanoi, Vietnam’s capital city, and its surroundings. To be honest, I was not expecting much from it, but it positively surprised me. With a very beautiful downtown, both the Old Quarter—that captures the essence of Vietnamese society—and the French Quarter—where one can see the influence of the French colonial era—Hanoi is a very lively city. The Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, the Hoa Lo prison, or several pagodas can be visited there. But what I would recommend to you is just to enjoy the city. Take a food tour, try its unique egg coffee in one of the multiple cafés all around the place, savor a beer—by the way, the cheapest in the world, as a pint of Hanoi Beer is around $0.25—at Train Street, buy some art from local artists, and enjoy a massage.
And you cannot leave Hanoi without visiting Halong Bay, one of the world’s seven natural wonders. Despite it being a very popular place for both locals and foreigners, thus it can get really crowded, the magical view of the almost 2,000 islands is absolutely worth it. If you are short on time, just take a one-day boat trip, but I would recommend you stay the night on a boat to admire how the landscape and the colors change as the day advances.
Vietnam left an indelible mark on me with its breathtaking landscapes, rich history, and warm-hearted people. From the vibrant chaos of Ho Chi Minh City to the serene rice terraces of Sapa, every moment felt like an adventure steeped in culture and natural beauty. As I boarded my flight home, I knew this would not be a goodbye but a “see you soon.” Vietnam is a country that beckons you to return, offering new treasures with every visit.